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Bora Bora
SOCIETY ISLANDS
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Aug. 9, 2002
Log: Tahaa to Bora Bora 24.5 nautical miles
As we left Tahaa, out through
the reef past the breaking surf and into the deep blue, we could see a huge
white fish just under the surface. Probably a tuna, the captain believes.
We motored along the reef heading 280° west to the famed tropical island
paradise of Bora Bora. It is the one island we are anticipating
visiting the most. It will be Gayla's second time there having spent 6
week camping in the early 1980's on one of the most pristine beaches in the
world. Will it still be that unspoiled island so laid back and
friendly?
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| The entrance through the pass is dramatic with a high mountain
peak covered in cloud. It is breathtaking! A mystical vision of a South
Pacific paradise. We anchor off the wharf of the famous Bloody Marys
Restaurant. |
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| For years Bloody Marys has been a favorite hangout for famous
people. During our stay we learned that two more, Brittney Spears and
Pierce Bronson were on the island during our stay . Pierce was know to
frequent the Internet every day at 4:30PM. Although we did not meet
either of them we did find Pauline's, the native lady who owned the
campground where Gayla had stayed years ago. . |
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| Like many island paradises Bora Bora has also given way to the
tourist trade and hotels and traffic have increased beyond the limits of
being considered idyllic. Pauline has now built the Le Maitai Polynesia
Hotel in the spot that was once the campground. The backpackers at
Pauline's new campground, inland and further from this white sandy
beach, say she still cares about the budget traveler, the roots of her
success as a hotelier. There are now thatch roofed bungalows over the
lagoon, jet ski rentals and hordes of sunbathers where there was once a
peaceful existence.
We rented two bicycles for $26US and peddled around the islands 32km
perimeter. We also climbed up the 139 meter hill to a radio tower for a
better view of the lagoon and long ring of motus on the barrier reef.
Eating out was not really an option with expenses way beyond a cruisers
budget but we did find plenty of fresh fruits and fish being sold along
the roadside by local residence. |
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| A better deal was when we returned the bikes to the campground and
found there was an evening buffet. Joining us were Steve, Irene and
there daughter Pearl from s/v Star. There were lots of laughs and an
opportunity to talk to Pearl about her experiences of living and doing
home school aboard. A stalk of banana's was given to us by the cook
renewing our faith in native hospitality. |
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| Lazy days were spent snorkeling off the end of Topua motu where we
discovered an enormous variety of fish that almost attacked us as we
entered the water. We felt this was due to the many dive boats which
frequent the motu and most likely feed the fish. New hotels were being
built over the water on the out side of the motus. The water was so
clear we could see forever underwater and even without an underwater
camera we watched an octopus glide across the bottom flashing vivid
colors of blue under it's arms. |
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| A more strenuous day consisted of climbing the Mt. Pahia 661 meters
on a hot day. Steve climbed the top and back in just 5 hours with the
family aboard s/v Odyssey visiting from England and the two young boys
on s/v Pale Fire, Ryan and Matt. Later that evening anchored off the
Bora Bora Yacht Club cruisers from Odyssey, Nyathi, Pale Fire and Motion
to name a few gathered at the Club for cocktail hour, a book swap and
to swap stories of the harrowing climb. |
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| All the cruisers agreed that the place to be on Bora Bora was aboard
our own yachts away from the maddening crowds and all agreed the views
from the water were the best part of Bora Bora. |